Daily Bread--The Easiest Recipe Ever

I’m adding ONE more bread installment because I want to share this great “5 Minute Artisan Bread” recipe. In Oregon I made my own bread in a cast iron Dutch oven using a New York Times recipe for no-knead bread. That was good, but I think this is better. The crumb is lighter, and it’s so much faster. Plus, this recipe makes a larger batch that you can refrigerate for up to 14 days.

I like to “step it up” with some additional nutritional elements, too, and I've found the “5 Minute” recipe very adaptable.

First, consider adding other grains or seeds. I purchased a cereal blend of oats, quinoa and flax seeds and add 1/4 to 1/3 cup to the full batch of dough. It adds some texture and interest to the bread, as well as a little boost of nutrition. Click here to read more about why oats are good for us, for instance, lowering cholesterol, stabilizing blood sugar and packing substantial amounts of vitamins and minerals into just ¼ cup. Quinoa is a super food with even more concentrations of anti-oxidants, anti-inflammatory elements and a complete protein package unlike other grains. Click here to read more about this ancient grain. Flax seeds (click here) help the body detoxify naturally--which is suspected to fight cancer—and are a good source of fiber and assist in nutrient absorption.

Finally, I’ve also picked up organic hemp powder and add one tablespoon to the batch, which is to my taste. The recommended ratio would probably be closer to 2-3 tablespoons, but I found it too strong a flavor. Click here to read more about hemp’s benefits to the human body, including containing every amino acid, a healthy dose of protein, the perfect ratio of both Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids and fiber content that help the immune system and productivity. For more hemp food products like seeds and oils, or fiber products like backpacks, pouches and clothing, talk with Doug Flight at Winkin' Sun Hemp (here.)  It’s fascinating stuff, and he’s very knowledgeable.

Next installments, we’ll look at some foods (and wines) that say, “Spring.”  

Article and all photos by Glynis Valenti

Irish Potato Bread (Potato Farls)

This is a short post, but this is also a really quick “bread.” Because St. Patrick’s Day is coming, I thought I would try an Irish Potato Bread. As with most breads, there are variations on this. The recipe I used—also known as potato farls--is super easy, and I would probably make mine a bit more “bread like” the next time around by adding more flour and some baking soda.

That said, farl is most likely derived from the Scots fardel and refers to a round cut into quadrants. The dough is primarily mashed, boiled potatoes with a little flour and salt.  After rolling into a round shape and cutting into four wedges, they are grilled or fried in a skillet. The flavor is kind of bland, but is traditionally dressed up with some butter, salt, black pepper, bacon, chives or a dollop of jam.

As noted, this recipe—or at least my version—reminded me more of potato pancakes or my mother’s potato patties more than bread. However, I think it would be excellent topped with corned beef and cabbage with diced carrots, or with corned beef and an egg the next morning. By the way, the dough is easiest to work with when the potatoes are freshly cooked (15-20 minutes) and still warm.  

This recipe, credited to Jane Baxter, is directly from a sweet article in The Guardian . Enjoy!

Prep time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes

Makes 8 small farls
500g floury potatoes, such as King Edward or desiree
50g butter
50g plain flour, plus extra for rolling out
¼ tsp baking powder
Salt and black pepper
Extra butter, for cooking

1 Peel the potatoes, then cut them into quarters. Cover with water in a saucepan, season with a pinch of salt and cook for about 15 minutes or until they become tender. You can check this by sticking a knife into them, it should slide out again easily. Drain well, then return the potatoes to the pan.

2 Melt the butter in a pan and add to the potatoes. Mash until smooth. For the best results, pass the potatoes through a potato ricer or mouli – otherwise, use a standard potato masher.

3 Sift the flour with the baking powder into the potato mix and stir to combine. Taste for seasoning and adjust, if required.

4 The dough should come together and away from the sides of the pan. You can add more flour if the mixture is too wet and a little milk if it is too dry.

5 Divide the dough into two halves. Form one piece into a ball, then roll it out on a floured surface and into a rough circle with a diameter of about 15 cm and a thickness of 5mm to 1cm. Cut the circle into quarters.

6 Heat a non-stick shallow frying pan over a medium heat with a little butter to grease the surface. Transfer the four pieces to the pan and cook for around 3 minutes or until golden brown. Flip over and cook the other side for another 3 minutes. Remove to a warm plate.

7 Repeat the process with the other half of the dough mix.

St. Joseph's Bread

Last year at this time I was working on a feature article on seasonal breads and couldn’t find any St. Joseph’s bread anywhere. All I had were my memories of Savoia Pastry Shoppe in my old neighborhood bringing hot loaves out first thing in the morning and people waiting in line for them. But this year, I’m back in Rochester and am seizing the opportunity to introduce it to those who don’t know about this bread.

St. Joseph is, indeed, Mary’s husband and the man who raised Jesus Christ. March 19 was designated St. Joseph Day by Rome in 1479, but it had already been observed for 500 years at that point.

Many churches and communities hold a feast in his honor. This partially stems from the Middle Ages when St. Joseph is credited for saving Sicily from famine. There was a severe drought, and Sicilians promised to honor St. Joseph with a feast if he sent rain. The fava bean became a symbol of the feast as the crop saved the island from famine. At St. Joseph’s feast—held during Lent--there are only meatless and cheese-less dishes of vegetables, breads, soups, cakes and pasta. Everyone is welcome to bring food and eat food, and sometimes food is given to shelters.

While there are a couple of versions of St. Joseph’s bread, this one is an egg bread, as in adding eggs to the batter, and the crust is egg-washed, hard and golden brown, sprinkled with sesame seeds. It’s said that the seeds represent sawdust, since St. Joseph was a carpenter.  

There are also many shapes to the bread, the symbols being as follows (per goldencroissantbakery.com):

• Monstrance (holds the Sacred Host)
• Chalice (consecration of the bread and wine at the Last Supper)
• Cross (crucifixion of Christ)
• Dove (Holy Spirit)
• Lamb (Jesus, the Lamb of God)
• Fish (symbol of Jesus)
• Heart (Sacred Heart of Jesus, Immaculate Heart of Mary)
• Palms (palms cast at the feet of Jesus)

Here is a recipe for St. Joseph's Bread from Saveur.com.

"The Smell of Good Bread Baking..."

“... like the sound of lightly flowing water, is indescribable in its evocation of innocence and delight...”

— MFK Fisher

In America’s Sweethearts, Julia Roberts tells John Cusack that she’s thinking of something that she shouldn’t be thinking about and that she even dreams about it: bread. Her carb-conscious diet had her longing for this glorious mixture of flour, water, salt and/or yeast.

And really, that is how simple this pleasure is still: two or three of the most fundamental ingredients baked into luscious loaves. Or sticks. Or rolls. (Who doesn’t smell hot, fresh bread right now?)

This month we’ll look at some different types of bread and their histories and recipes. First, a bit of background and trivia about one of our most ancient foods. 

• The word “bread” may come from the Latin crustum meaning “broken bits, pieces,” thus “break” to “bread.” But prior to the year 1100, “loaf” was the more recognized word in many cultures.
• Flatbreads came first, around 20,000 years ago. When grains became cultivated and more refined in the diet during the Neolithic age, unleavened dough gathered airborne yeasts and changed the texture and process.
• Early cultures began isolating yeast from beer and wine to make bread.
• Wheat is native to the area around the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers, today’s Iraq.
• One acre of wheat can produce enough bread to feed a family of four for 10 years, or 9000 people for one day.
• The first wheat in the United States was planted in 1777, and today it’s grown in 42 states. Half of the wheat produced is used here.
• Ancient Egyptians started the practice of using moldy bread as a topical cure for cuts.
• In the 16th century bread consumption was related to class. Workers/servants got the bottoms of the loaves (often burned,) families ate the middle portion, and the wealthy took the upper crusts.
• While Julia Roberts’ character was more afraid of gaining weight than of the bread itself, there is a real background to a movement in the 1920s and its “fear of starch,” amylophobia, which was thought to originate from a controversial food and health activist in the mid-1800s, Sylvester Graham.  

(More information on bread at Wikipedia and the Wheat Foods Council)

A Little "Pick Me Up" for Valentine's Day

Clear the table—it’s time for dessert. In fact, the word “dessert” comes from the French word desservir, meaning “to clear the table.” But while the word was first used in the 1300s, the concept of special sweet foods had been around for well over 1500 years before that. Early civilizations offered honey and fruits to the gods, but by 600 BC sugarcane had been discovered and utilized to sweeten blander foods. As exploration grew, so did trade, and sugarcane became a hot commodity by the Middle Ages. Sugar remained pricey and was purchased and used mainly by the wealthy and on special occasions.

Fortunately, in Italy, religious feast days provided many opportunities throughout the year for regular folks to sample and savor the creations of bakers and nuns until the early 20th century and the beginnings of more affordable processed sugar and foods.

Cannoli (singular “cannolo”) is believed to be an Arabian dessert that began in Sicily during the Arab occupation. The word means “little tube,” and the first cannoli were filled with fruits and nuts. They are usually made from deep fried pastry dough, wrapped around a tube or dowel, then, after setting, are filled with a sweetened ricotta cheese mixture. Variations include adding chocolate chips, flavorings, nuts, fruits or candies to either end or to the filling itself. Another variation from the Lazio and Abruzzo regions in Italy is using a pizzelle as the tube, molding the hot, soft cookie around the dowel.

Since sugar became part of the food system in the first millennium, what we would call cookies have been here, too—well, starting with Persia. At first they were hard little disks, popular for taking on long journeys, but the recipes and variations spread with travel. They were easy and inexpensive to make, and so were accessible to all classes.

The word cookie is most likely derived from the Dutch koekje meaning “little cake,” and that word and pastry came to America with 17th century Dutch settlers. Popular Italian-American cookies are the colorful butter cookies found in bakeries and weddings. The recipes closer to authentic Italian cookies include almond paste and possibly fruit or jam, but those with sprinkles and dollops of icing are the Americanized versions. Biscotti is the Italian name for cookie, but in the United States it’s a specific type of flavored toasted cookie.

Need a pick-me-up? You need tiramisu, which means “pick me up” or “cheer me up.” And it will.

While it may be based on a dessert from the 1600s, researchers attribute today’s tiramisu recipe to Roberto Linguanotto, a bakery owner in Veneto during the 1960s. The traditional recipe calls for layers of coffee soaked finger biscuits alternated with a whipped cream of mascarpone cheese, egg yolks, and sugar, then dusted with cocoa powder. It was also originally a round dessert, but layering the cookies in square or rectangular pans makes it more consistent aesthetically.

Once again, there are many variations to the basic recipe. Today many include alcohol—rum, Kahlua, Irish cream or Tia Maria. People often add whipped cream to the cheese mixture to lighten the texture. Instead of coffee, some recipes use amaretto or pureed fruits like berries or bananas.

Click here if you feel like cheering up your honey by making a special tiramisu for two from Allrecipes.com. And check out this week's Wine Pick, Prosecco, Italian sparkling wine for your Valentine. 

Food Love/Love Food

Ahh, here we are again celebrating the love of food and, this week and next, the food of love. I recently read that Italy has taken top place as having the most romantic cuisine. Maybe it’s the beautiful pasta sauces, or the fragrant cheeses or the bold wines or liqueur-laced tiramisu. Or maybe it’s the spaghetti scene from “Lady and the Tramp.” No matter. Next week is Valentine’s Day, and I’d like you to consider the romantic aspects of antipasto.

The word antipasto comes from the Latin antus or “before” and pastus or “meal.” The plural is antipasti. Coined in the sixteenth century, it is the first course of traditional Italian meals. The fare is regional but usually includes olives, vegetables like artichoke hearts and peperoncini, cheeses, and cured meats. Variations include seafood, sausages, fruit, or pickled vegetables among other finger foods.

It is meant to be colorful and stimulate the appetite. If you’re making this a light meal for two, as I have, add two or three more slices of cheese and meat and some extra fruit. The one I’ve prepared for the photos has Fontanella and Romano cheeses, mozzarella wrapped in prosciutto, soppressata, mixed olives, roasted almonds and fresh raspberries. There is fresh, crusty bread on the side and, of course, wine.

There is no set recipe for antipasti, so it is simple to prepare and to display on a plate or platter. You can choose ingredients according to taste or region. And since this is Valentine’s Day, there are certain foods said to enhance the romance, too. 

• Olives, for instance.  The Greeks believed they made men virile. They are full of antioxidants and good fats for healthy hearts, hormones and blood circulation, so that could very well be true.
• Red hot chili peppers even sound sexy, but they get the reputation from stepping up “feel good” endorphin production, the heart rate and sweating, similar to symptoms of arousal.
• The Aztecs thought of avocados as aphrodisiacs. They not only taste good, but the vitamin E keeps the body healthy.
• To set the mood for love mix marjoram, mint, thyme and/or violet—herbs of Venus-- with basil and/or broom—herbs of Mars.
• Apples were considered symbols of love by both the Greeks and Celts, in part because they keep so long after being picked from the tree.    
• Eating dark chocolate really creates a pleasurable feeling because it increases dopamine production. 

Preparing food with love reflects in the meal. Is there any nicer way to show you care than by nourishing family and friends with beautiful food?

Check tomorrow's "Wine Pick" for a romantic wine to drink with antipasti. Or pasta, or pork chops. 

Next week, dessert…

Comfort Food: Macaroni and Cheese

Macaroni and cheese. Blue boxes, skinny little tubes swimming in creamy orange sauce, or thick elbow macaroni in bubbling, yellow goo, steaming from the oven in a casserole dish. Everyone agrees that this classic is pure comfort. Calories don’t even enter the picture--there are just too many.   

In America, most sources credit Thomas Jefferson with bringing the dish to this side of the pond after having been enchanted by it in Europe. He bought a pasta maker and cheese from Italy, and his daughter made the dish at the White House. Jefferson even served it at a State dinner in 1802. The Italians were the first to record a recipe for pasta and Parmesan, though, in the 1300s. The English were writing their own cookbook about the same time which included a dish called “makerouns,” a lasagna-type casserole layering fresh pasta with cheese and butter.

In 1937, as the US reeled from the Great Depression, Kraft Foods introduced the iconic Kraft Cheese and Macaroni when a salesman came up with it as a way to sell more cheese. Eight million boxes at 19 cents each were sold that year, and even today, Kraft sells one million boxes per day. It retained its popularity during World War II when meat was in short supply and became a household staple after that.

Of course there are many, many variations on the mac and cheese theme. Cheddar is the number one cheese used, but combining two or more cheeses is common. Choose cheeses with some bite, like sharp Cheddar, Fontina, or Gruyere to increase the cheesy flavors, so they aren’t lost in the milky sauce.

Some people add bacon, ham, tuna, ground beef, vegetables, mushrooms or any number of spices and herbs to bump it up, as long as it’s gooey and hot and sticks to the ribs.

I’m a purist and like the regular cheesy sauce on macaroni, baked in the oven casserole. For these photos, I used a super easy, basic recipe from the New York Times (click here) that can be added to or adjusted with little or no effort.

Others go for the low-fat versions. Boo on that—this is comfort food for snow-shoveling, snow-shoeing, “feed a cold,” and coming-home-from-a-tough-day days. And if you’ve had a REALLY tough day, this link to an article by The Huffington Post will give you a recipe combining TWO comfort foods: the Mac and Cheese Grilled Cheese Sandwich. There are also recipes for mac and cheese pizza, mac and cheese stuffed peppers and mac and cheese stuffed meatball sandwiches.

Hope you’ve enjoyed the comfort food series. Check out the wine pairing for macaroni and cheese in this week’s “Wine Pick” on the Wine page. For the next two weeks, come back for a tribute to amore, foods and wines of love.  

Comfort Food: Grilled Cheese

It’s another comfort food classic, and I have memories of eating grilled cheese sandwiches (and tomato soup) after sledding on Cherry Hill. I still fix it for a quick dinner, but chefs have updated today’s grilled cheeses with gourmet ingredients, and some are even—dare I say it?—healthy.

As with meatloaf, cheese on bread has been around since at least Roman civilization, where it appeared in early cookbooks. Fast forward more than 1500 years, and the French were eating their classic comfort sandwich, Croque-monsieur, grilled (or baked) ham and cheese by 1910.

Two events in the early years of the 20th century shaped America’s version of bread and cheese. First, James L. Kraft launched his version of processed American cheese, which enabled mass production of a dairy product that stayed fresh longer. Second, Otto Frederick Rohwedder, of Iowa, invented and marketed the commercial bread slicer machine, stepping up production of mass produced white bread.

The Great Depression boosted the popularity of “toasted cheese” sandwiches, which, at the time, used only one slice of bread. Ration-conscious moms in World War II fed their children plenty of these, too. In the 1960s, the top slice of bread was added and became the sandwich familiar to us today. 

Nostalgic as it is, if the Kraft singles/Wonder Bread version isn’t your thing, you can revisit your culinary past without guilt using a couple of variations:

• Start with a whole grain or multi-grain bread for better nutrition and fiber. And butter the bread, not the pan.
• Truth be told, American cheese slices have little flavor. If you want flavor and orange color, use grated sharp Cheddar. Grown-up cheeses like Gruyere and Asiago will give your sandwich a tang, as will goat cheese. Bonus: more flavor means you can use less. In addition, goat cheese is naturally homogenized, has less fat and is often tolerated by the lactose-intolerant.
• Creamy cheeses like brie and soft cheeses like mozzarella or farm cheese melt easily to a gooey consistency. Brie usually has less sodium; part-skim mozzarella has less fat. But don’t use “fat free” cheese. It doesn’t melt, and it isn’t “real” cheese.
• Cover the sandwich while it’s cooking to melt the cheese faster, so the bread doesn’t burn; let the finished sandwich rest for a couple of minutes to cool and bring out the flavors.  
• Aside from cheese, the most popular toppings added to the sandwich in the United States are bacon, ham and tomato. The sky is the limit, though, with recipes listing everything from spinach to chocolate. Click here for a look at Martha Stewart's takes on this classic, but Google “grilled cheese + (a ingredient,) and you’ll probably find something to love. 

Speaking of love, the record for competitive scarfing of grilled cheese, was achieved in 2012 in Texas by a Japanese competitive eater—13 sandwiches in 60 seconds.

The most expensive grilled cheese was purchased on eBay in 2004. A Florida woman claimed she kept her sandwich on her nightstand for 10 years because she believed the face of the Blessed Virgin Mary Mother of God was on the bread. An online casino, GoldenPalace.com bought her sandwich for $28,000. For everyday fare, though, the most expensive grilled cheese is at a NYC restaurant, Serendipity 3. Chefs use the rare Caciocavallo Podolico cheese, bread made with Dom Perignon Champagne, truffle oil with gold flecks, and truffle butter on the grill, for $214.

Searching for the perfect grilled cheese? Here’s a link to help you match your soul with the sandwich.

Check the wine page to find out why a Bordeaux blend would be an excellent partner to grilled cheese. 

Comfort Food: Meatloaf

Can anyone not picture meatloaf? In America, grandmas, moms, greasy spoon diners and all-you-can-eat buffets have their own favorite recipes for this classic comfort food, usually served with mashed potatoes. Meatloaf is ground meat, but recipes dart off into all different tangents after that. North Americans generally use equal parts of ground beef, ground pork and ground veal, but some cultures use only beef or only turkey or add ham, venison, lamb, chicken, types of sausage—even seafood.

Some recipes add an egg to bind the meat (my mother’s did;) others say no eggs or add hard boiled eggs (chopped or inserted whole.) Spices vary, too: parsley, salt, pepper, curry, oregano, rosemary—or no spices. Chopped onions, celery, carrots, or not. Gravy or tomato sauce? My mother topped ours with tomato paste.

Most modern cultures should be familiar with meatloaf because it’s been around for two millenniums. Its first recorded recipe appeared in a Roman cookbook from the fifth century. Researchers think today’s meatloaf in the United States is based on recipes brought by German settlers, and those, in turn, may have come from the Dutch meatball. The dish became even more popular during the Great Depression and World War II, when families were stretching their foods and budgets. Meatloaf became an economical way to serve meat, adding vegetables or eggs, and stretching it even farther with breadcrumbs or cracker crumbs.

Calorie counts and nutrition will vary based on the ingredients, but, according to Fatsecret.com, one “large” slice of meatloaf, similar to what is in this article’s photos, without gravy or sauce, averages 294 calories (17.44 g of fat and 23.27 g of protein.) As always, beware of restaurant comfort foods. The “low calorie” version of Bob Evans’ Meatloaf and Gravy entree is 1,470 calories, which comes with two pieces (total fat 78 g and 71 g of protein.)  

Here are some of the variations of this Blue Plate Special from other cultures:

• Puerto Rico: ground beef, pork and turkey, breadcrumbs, parsley, red beans, potatoes, adobo sauce, Worcestershire sauce, milk and ketchup, and a hard-boiled egg is in the center.
• Denmark: a loaf of ground pork and beef, topped with bacon strips or cubes, and on the side, potatoes with a red currant-sweetened brown sauce.
• Philippines: ground pork, minced carrots and seasoning wrapped around sausages and boiled eggs; it’s steamed in banana leaves (or aluminum foil,) then sliced and fried for breakfast.
• South Africa:  originally from the East Indies hundreds of years ago, their version is meatloaf sweetened with curry, dried apricots and almonds, then covered with a whipped egg and milk mixture and baked.  

From Scandinavia to South Africa, Mexico to the Middle East, meatloaf is a staple in comfort food culture. What should you drink with meatloaf? See the “Wine Pick of the Week” for a review on Zinfandel and why it’s a great meatloaf partner. 

January: Burrow in with Some Comfort Food

It looks like Winter finally came back from the Bahamas, so hearty fare like stews and pastas will probably begin showing up on dinner tables. Stop back on this page weekly as I feature different comfort foods each week all month. In addition, I'll pair wines to go with them in this site's "Wine Pick of the Week," posted on Thursdays on the "Wine" page. 

First, a background on comfort foods and how they became part of us. Here's a feature I wrote, originally published in The Times Leader. Enjoy!

It isn’t possible to know exactly when sustenance became a substitute. Cavemen most likely ate to survive and hunt another day. Were gorging Romans trying to assuage guilt about throwing people to the lions, or were they alleviating worry about the fall of the empire? By that point food was considered pleasurable and was far more complicated than nuts, berries and wild boar, but a source of comfort? No one can say.

By end of the 1970’s, however, comfort food was a genre listed in Webster’s Dictionary and recognized by anyone holding eating utensils. People used food to feel better. There is a physiological reason for the body to seek food for comfort that in fact dates back to the cavemen: stress. When a person is threatened, be it a saber-toothed tiger or job loss, the brain tells the body to produce cortisol, which signals systems throughout the body to gear up for life-saving (increase the heart rate, become alert, send blood to muscles for quick action.) In the short-term, once the danger has passed, the body will shut the responses down. For chronic or long-term stress, cortisol production is prolonged, and the body’s internal response is to keep energy reserves (fat, particularly in the abdomen) on hand to maintain a higher level of internal activity. This means a natural craving for high fat, high sugar foods easily stored for energy. Once fat is stored, the body finally begins to shut the responses down, letting the brain know that there is a reserve of energy available.

The psychological and emotional connections to comfort food are a bit more complex and individual, but generally go back to the body’s hormone production. One university study had students categorize foods into nostalgic, physical, indulgence and convenience comfort foods, in effect showing that people make conscious choices about what foods make them feel better and why. When the body takes in sugar and starch, it produces a neurotransmitter called serotonin. The brain translates this chemical into “contentment, well-being.” Oxytocin is produced when the body eats salty food. This chemical is a warm and fuzzy “love hormone” related to trust, bonding and human sexual responses. Foods themselves can determine the resulting chemical and, to a certain extent, emotional reaction.   

Sight, sound, touch and smell link memories with responses as well. The scent of a perfume, good or bad, can take one back to a fourth grade teacher or great aunt. So it is with food. In an informal survey for this article, a group from various backgrounds in the east, Midwest and west coast were asked about their comfort foods. In answers to “what makes this a comfort food for you,” 50 percent of the respondents specifically mentioned associating the dish with their mothers or grandparents. Another 22 percent noted childhood memories (without mention of mothers or grandparents.) The difference may seem subtle, but the “moms” group associates the food with a person, love and connection to that person in general over time. The “childhood memories” group and, in fact, the remaining 28 percent seem to identify with the dish itself and its association with a time of illness, a reward or past good times.  

Comfort food is also not an American phenomenon. Cultures on every continent have dishes that incorporate the same characteristics and are eaten for the same reasons as classic American versions. Most are served warm, though some of the sweeter foods are not (candy, ice cream;) most are soft (noodles, melted cheese, meatballs;) many are starchy (potatoes, homemade bread.) One person’s eggnog is another’s pad thai.

In the above-mentioned survey one Ohio Valley chef (port braised lamb shanks with creamy polenta and arugula) and one owner of a computer service company in New York (beef stew) both cited the change of season for their comfort food choices. The chef associated his dish with the change in menu and good times with his restaurant crew. The man with the computer company noted the fall colors of his dish and mentioned the first snow of the season. 

Lists for the top named (American) comfort foods include what one might expect: macaroni and cheese, chicken soup, pot roast, beef stew, chocolate, apple and pumpkin pies, spaghetti, meatloaf, mashed potatoes. Aside from a couple of the favorites, though, the survey really showed the diversity of population while still staying true to comfort food characteristics: mashed potatoes with noodles in the center; peanut butter; ginger ale; eggnog; French fries with gravy; creamed peas and bacon made by mom. One woman describes her favorite: “Whole grain bread, toasted, with huge amounts of melted cheese on top. Tastes good while being not especially good for me, a prerequisite of comfort food. It probably reminds me of childhood when the cheese would have been generic Velveeta. Now the cheese is actually real cheese.”

She does bring up a point about comfort food: it isn’t healthy for everyday fare. This is also part of today’s stress issues relating to the upswing in obesity. As previously mentioned, stress increases serotonin in the body, therefore increasing cravings for easily converted energy foods. High carb/low protein foods keep the production of serotonin going, also stimulating insulin production, which over the long-term can result in obesity and Type 2 diabetes. Cookbooks and websites are full of updated recipes to make comfort-style foods healthier, but part of the idea is the indulgence. 

Though each has different experiences and preferences, humans are all designed the same, and using food to feel better is universal. The word “comfort” is derived from the Latin “confortare,” to strengthen. Chances are just reading this article has triggered some favorite food memory.

In the words of renowned food writer and author M.F.K. Fisher, “It seems to me that our three basic needs, for food and security and love, are so mixed and mingled and entwined that we cannot straightly think of one without the others. So it happens that when I write of hunger, I am really writing about love and the hunger for it, and warmth and the love of it and the hunger for it ... and then the warmth and richness and fine reality of hunger satisfied ... and it is all one.”

Cherries: The Delectable Drupe

Get ‘em while you can. Cherries have a short season—just 3-4 weeks in May and June—and only grow in certain climates with cold temps, not tropical. Washington state and Michigan produce most of the United States crop, and that is labor intensive for this somewhat delicate fruit tree. But the sweet, or dark, cherry is a healthy, tasty snack on its own, and the tart cherry is the better cooking cherry. Here are a few more facts about this fleeting drupe (stone fruit, from Latin drupe [olive] originating from [wrinkled olive] Greek druppa.)

• Cherry pits were found in caves dating to the Stone Age in Europe. Greek scholar Theophrastus mentioned them in his “History of Plants” around 300 BC, saying that Greeks had been cultivating cherries for centuries. The cherry arrived on North American soil with the colonists in the 17th century.
• There are 1,000 different types of cherry trees in the US now, but only 10 are grown for commercial production. In fact, none of the 3,700 trees on the Mall in Washington, DC yield edible fruit, and many of them are cultivated to be sterile and produce only the flowers.
• Each tree can harvest up to 7,000 cherries annually, according to the Cherry Marketing Institute, which is enough for 30 pies. There are approximately 44 cherries per pound, and one cup—10 to 12 cherries--contains around 90 calories. However, one piece of Mrs. Smith's Cherry Pie (1/8 pie) racks up 330 calories. 
• As early as the 15th century cherries were used for medicinal purposes. Today’s research and studies confirm their anti-inflammatory properties for arthritis, post-workout muscle soreness, and gout. Other studies indicate benefits in reducing the risk of stroke, high cholesterol, high blood pressure, and diabetes. If insomnia is your problem, try drinking a half to one cup of 100 percent cherry juice an hour before going to bed. The melatonin will help regulate body rhythms.
• In the US maraschino cherries are not quite the real thing. The Marasca is a sour Morello cherry and grows in Eastern Europe and Italy. This bitter, dry variety was used to make liqueur, and the Marasca cherries were bottled with it, a treat for the wealthy. The popular maraschino used on ice cream and in sweet drinks is really a sweet cherry called Royal Ann that, per FDA description is “dyed red, impregnated with sugar and packed in a sugar sirup flavored with oil of bitter almonds or a similar flavor.”   

Yogurt: Health Benefits in Six Ounces a Day

All yogurts are not created equal. If you’re a fan or want to get the most out of that little cup, keep reading.

•  “Greek” yogurt is strained, which removes whey, sugar and lactose. It isn’t as sweet (sometimes only 25% of the sugar,) but is thicker, creamier and has more protein.  Conventional yogurt has more sugar, but strained yogurt has more saturated fat.
• In fact, there is no such thing as “Greek” yogurt in Europe. It is a marketing term used by a Turkish businessman in the United States that caught on. It refers to the process of straining the yogurt, used for many Mediterranean dishes. There is no “standard” in the US for how that is done or for insuring the quality.
• Both types have bacteria beneficial to the digestive system, but here is where reading individual labels is important. Look for “active live cultures” as close to the top of the ingredients list as possible, preferably second or third. Compare this to a mainstream brand of traditional yogurt like Dannon or Yoplait, and you’ll see that “sugar” and other ingredients like preservatives often precede the bacteria listing.
• High quality yogurts provide the bacteria that the body can use and are less expensive than the “probiotic” yogurts. If stomach distress and bloating is a particular issue, try out the specialty yogurts for two weeks to see if they make a difference.   
• Yogurt is an excellent post workout food. It has some carbs to replenish energy, it has up to 20 grams of protein containing amino acids for muscles. More yogurt health and weight loss benefits from www.fitnessmagazine.com . 
• Women can especially benefit from quality yogurt. It lowers the risks of high blood pressure, yeast infections and osteoporosis in addition to acting as a natural, healthy skin masque. Check out some in-depth information and recipes (including making your own yogurt and an easy skin masque) at www.jenreviews.com..
• Summer is a great time to eat yogurt because it pairs so well with fruit. Purchase plain or vanilla and add fresh or frozen berries and stone fruit for a cool, light meal or snack. Add chopped walnuts, almonds or pecans for additional nutrients, or half a teaspoon of cinnamon for an extra digestive kick. 

Feel Good Friday: National Doughnut Day

I'm not a "doughnut" person. Once in a great while I'll pick a doughnut or cinnamon roll up for the next morning's breakfast, but I usually guilt-trip myself out before I open the bag. Empty calories aside, I don't really care for sweet breakfast foods. 

But who could resist celebrating Feel Good Friday with a sweet treat?  Especially when it's for a good cause...

According to the story below, the Day began in support of women who provided food and coffee and sundries to World War I soldiers, and some bakeries still contribute to the Salvation Army out of the day's sales. The article also mentions Hough Bakery, which made the best birthday cakes ever when I was growing up. 

 https://www.yahoo.com/food/where-to-get-free-doughnuts-on-national-doughnut-120694907076.html

I may just stop on the way to the office and pick something out. I'll have the whole weekend to work off the calories, right?

Have a sweet weekend!

Looking for Something Different for Dinner?

(Another of my features originally published in the Times Leader. Check out the two Wheeling businesses, and Wegmans carries Kalettes. No word yet on local bug flour.)

Are you an adventurous eater? Tired of standard beef, potatoes and chicken? If the thought of a Moroccan market sets your heart a-flutter, there may be some foods stateside to satisfy that pioneer spirit.

On the tame end of the spectrum are Kalettes (pronounced kay-lets.) This new vegetable is a combination of kale and Brussels sprouts. Scientists in the UK spent 15 years developing this hybrid through natural plant breeding rather than genetic modification, hence they are non-GMO. Trader Joe’s, Wegmans and Whole Foods began carrying them last year.

To some people, crossing these two vegetables is the ultimate “awful” given kale’s sometimes sharp, bitter taste and the sprouts’ somewhat sour flavor, but researchers have tried to bring out the best qualities of each and say the result is more appealing. It looks like a tiny dark green and purple cabbage with ruffled leaves and has a taste that is both sweet and nutty.

They are actually from the same plant family, Brassica oleracea, which also includes broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage. Of course a one cup serving is packed with nutrition: 15 percent of the RDA in iron; 27 percent of the RDA in Vitamin C; 80 percent of the RDA in Vitamin K; 90 percent of the RDA in iron; 5 grams of fiber. Blanching and roasting seem to be the most popular ways to prepare them, and there are recipes online.

Carnivores may want to give beefalo a try. Just as it sounds, the meat is a cross between cattle and American bison. This is not a new concept or breed. Settlers in North America noticed the results of accidental crossings in the mid-1700s, and in the 1800s ranchers in the United States and Canada began efforts to intentionally crossbreed to develop hardier cattle for harsh winters. For the next 80 years breeders tried to find the optimum combination of bloodlines and determined that 3/8 buffalo to 5/8 cow (usually a beef breed) is that ratio.

Nutritionally, beefalo is lower in fat and cholesterol and has 5 percent more protein than regular beef. Beefalo are grass fed without grain supplements, so they are more self-sufficient eaters and less expensive for ranchers.  The meat is lean and with a slightly sweeter flavor than beef.

Matt Welsch, chef/owner of The Vagabond Kitchen (on Facebook) in Wheeling, has beefalo on his menu regularly saying he “fell in love” when a West Virginia producer had him try it. 

“I have a longstanding relationship with the Utterbacks at Brookside Farm in Aurora,” Welsch explains. “When Mark told me about his lamb and beefalo production, I was excited to try it, and when I did I fell in love. It makes it even better that I know his animals are treated well and they are a good hardworking family.”

While a local grocery store carries regular buffalo meat, Welsch adds that he doesn’t know of another producer in this area, though Pittsburgh stores may carry beefalo. Meanwhile those interested could contact Brookside and stop in for a sandwich or steak at Vagabond Kitchen.

“Beefalo is one of many things we’re proud and excited to bring to the area. We invite folks to come in and give it a try,” notes Welsch. “They’re often pleasantly surprised.”

This is a chicken-fried beefalo steak burger, one of the menu items at The Vagabond Kitchen. Chef Matt Welsch says customers love his beefalo entrees. 

 People may also be surprised at the benefits of hemp seeds and hemp seed oil. To start, Cannabis sativa grown for hemp is not the same as the Cannabis sativa grown for medical or recreational marijuana. By law, the hemp plant can have no more than .03 percent of the psychoactive substance tetrahydrocannabinol (THC,) and any seeds used for commerce must be sterilized so they cannot produce plants. The hemp plant is fibrous and has been used to make fabric, rope and medicine for over a thousand years in Asia, and it is also legal in the European Union.

Hemp is a nutritional star. One tablespoon of hemp seed oil per day contains the full recommended daily allowance for all essential fatty acids (EFAs,) is a source for gamma linoleic acid (GLA,) as well as being desirably low in saturated fatty acids. Hemp seeds contain 35 to 50 percent high quality, easily-digestible protein.

Benefits to the body include improved cardiovascular health thanks to a 3:1 ratio of (mercury free) omega 6 to omega 3 acids. This also helps beneficial gut flora and aids the autoimmune system. Hemp is high in Vitamin E and has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that can alleviate skin dryness and slow the aging process. It has been shown to aid in weight loss and regulation of blood sugar.

Douglas Flight, owner of Winkin’ Sun Hemp (www.winkinsunhemp.com,) notes that people using flax seed oil or chia seed, borage oil or evening primrose oil may want to check out hemp seed oil because it has higher omega fatty acids as well as the GLA. Since the seeds contain so much protein, those wanting to reduce animal protein in their diets may also find hemp seeds to their liking.

He says that seeds taste similar to walnuts, sunflower seeds or pine nuts. Eating them in the shell is crunchier and provides more fiber. Seeds come in a variety of flavors, even chocolate covered.   

  Is there something buyers should look for on the label when comparing hemp seeds and oil?

 “If you're picky about ‘organic certification’ then look for the certified logo or emblem. Typically, most hemp seed IS organically grown as it needs no pesticides to grow healthy by nature,” Flight points out. “You'll want to make sure packaging has a nutrition guide outlining the serving size and nutrition content as well as a freshness date stamp or sticker. Seeds and oil have about a 6 to 8 month shelf life, and it should be stored in the refrigerator to extend freshness after opening. We also recommend Canadian seed over other imported brands in regards to taste and nutrient content.”

 Finally, who knew that bugs in flour could be a good thing? Other cultures have eaten crawly, crunchy critters for centuries, and now climate changes and trying to feed people in drought-affected countries have necessitated alternative methods of providing nutrient rich foods. As it happens, insects are an excellent source of protein, are gluten free and contain minerals like magnesium and iron.

There are now farms that raise crickets for human consumption.  Proponents of insects as food say that growing them uses less food and water and is more environmentally friendly, that a cricket becomes an adult in six weeks producing fast harvest turnovers, and a female can lay 15,000 eggs in her lifetime. Once harvested, they are sterilized and roasted, then milled into a powder that has about half as much protein as beef—unless you’re comparing it to dried beef. Crickets have 22 percent more protein than dried beef.  

 In 2013 a group of Canadian MBA students were awarded $1 million to develop insect –based programs that would produce flour for undernourished populations. They were beginning  their “Power Flour” program in Mexico with grasshoppers and had researched opportunities in Africa and Thailand. The United Nations Food and Agricultural Organization supports this, noting that popular insects like grasshoppers, crickets and mealworms contain not only protein, but fat and amino acids lysine and tryptophan that are not plentiful in cereal grains like soy.

Companies like Bitty Foods in San Francisco are introducing baked goods made with insect flour to customers, and other bakeries in New York and Los Angeles may follow. There is even some discussion in the pizza industry about cricket flour crusts, though taking it to Western culture mainstream is still only speculation for the future. Maybe just starting by adding anchovies isn’t such a bad idea. 

Feature Article: Tools of the Trade

Wooden spoons are more versatile and durable than they first appear and are found in most professional kitchens. Diane Conroy’s spoon was a gift from her mother before Conroy got married, and she uses it to make many of her cookies and desserts. 

(This is a feature article that appeared in the Times Leader on Sunday, May 10, 2015)

From classic Julia Child to programs that feature weird foods in exotic places, Americans are obsessed with food and cooking. Their appetites aren’t satisfied there, but branch out to kitchen renovation shows and infomercials that tout the trendiest must-haves. An internet search for “kitchen gadgets” yields  a $20 egg topper (for soft-boiled eggs,) a $90 corkscrew, a $700 home espresso machine, a $100 tabletop unit that cuts potatoes into French fries and a $34 heated butter knife.  

A great craftsman, no matter what the task, is not determined by the latest or most expensive gadgets and utensils. But having the right tools and knowing how to use them can certainly contribute to success. The three cooking professionals interviewed for this article did not mention an avocado slicer/pitter or a $500 frozen smoothie maker in their lists of must-haves. Instead, their go-to tools of choice are practical and even humble.

 And it doesn’t get much more humble than a wooden spoon. Diane Conroy, caterer, baker and owner of A Cookie Jar, says one of her most prized tools is a wooden spoon that her mother gave her nearly 40 years ago. Conroy grew up in a Greek/Italian family where everyone learned their way around the kitchen practically as toddlers.

“This spoon has been through it all, seen it all and done it all,” she explains. “My hands, my children’s hands, and lots of friends and family have used this spoon throughout the years. Its handle is slightly bowed from all the use.”

Researchers speculate that spoon-like utensils have been around since the Paleolithic era, but were definitely utilized by the Egyptians 3,000 years ago. Wooden spoons were often part of the precious few possessions that settlers carried with them, and they were even passed down through generations. Native Americans carved spoons and sold them to the new colonists.

Cooks today still consider them important to have on hand, and there seems to be a resurgence in wooden spoon popularity. The best are made from hardwoods like apple, maple, teak, cherry, hickory, olive wood, birch and ebony for durability and wood density. Many cooks have one for sweet recipes and one for savory because strong foods or spices can flavor the wood. Wood doesn’t conduct heat, so it stays cool in the pan; it is non-reactive with acid and won’t taint the cooking foods; wood is safe for non-stick coatings and won’t scratch metal pots and pans.

“Every brownie I’ve ever made was made with a wooden spoon, never a mixer. I use the spoon instead of a mixer in a lot of recipes because it gives it a different texture.”

Diane Conroy, baker and caterer, with one of her favorite kitchen tools. This model of the KitchenAid mixer is made in Ohio and has been a standard with professionals for 80 years. 

Conroy, however, won’t part with her KitchenAid mixer, either, and considers it another kitchen essential for serious home cooks and bakers. With all of the attachments available, she not only uses it in much of her baking, but for making pasta and ravioli and grinding and stuffing sausage.

Chef Mark Glass, a chef for more than 35 years and now a chef instructor at West Virginia Northern Community College Culinary Arts program, agrees with Conroy and places his KitchenAid mixer in his top three kitchen tools. The one he uses at home once or twice a week is over 20 years old.

The first KitchenAid mixer was developed by the Hobart Company for Whirlpool in 1918 and was built at the Troy Metal Products factory in Springfield, Ohio. It was called the C-10 and was a 10 quart commercial grade developed for bakeries. It was soon added to US Navy ship galleys as standard equipment. KitchenAid’s first stand mixer was produced a year later and during the 1930s became the iconic “K” model with the familiar shape. Attachments from the first “K” mixers fit today’s model, and vice versa.

These first home mixers were sold door-to-door by women, and by the end of the decade the company sold out every Christmas. During World War II, the Springfield factory closed, but when production resumed after the war, it was moved to a larger facility in Greenville, Ohio, where they are still made today.

“They’re very well made. I couldn’t use it every day in a commercial kitchen, but for 20 years of home use—we’re talking about a whole generation,” Glass says.

Glass also uses his Cuisineart Food Processor often for chopping and pureeing. He notes, though, that all aspiring and accomplished cooks learn and develop knife skills first.

“That’s probably the most important kitchen tool for anyone—a good set of sharp knives,” he continues. “You need at least a chef’s knife, paring and boning knives and a sharpening stone. You can find good knives for $25 to $35 each, too. You don’t have to spend $100 on a knife. I don’t think I’ve ever paid $100 for a knife.”  

Chef Mark Glass, culinary arts chef and instructor at West Virginia Northern Community College, with a professional mandoline (used for slicing and cutting julienne strips) and one of his wish list items, a Robot Coupe, a super-charged food processor for commercial kitchens. 

In fact, Dean Baranth, chef/owner of Ideal Provisions food truck and catering, gave knives two of his top three slots when asked for his favorite tools: his off-set serrated knife and 10 inch chef’s knife.

“I can cut a loaf of bread, slice roast beef on a buffet line, slice a sandwich in half or open a can with [my serrated knife,]” says Baranth. “My mum bought me [the chef’s] knife when I was going off to college for culinary arts. I use this knife for everything. The tip broke off years ago, but sharpening it almost every day, you can't tell it was ever broken.”

Knives, like spoons, are thousands of years old and began as sharp rocks and shells. Around 3000 BCE, humans began fashioning copper then bronze into knives and swords. Eventually, because of their rich natural resources available for manufacturing, Germany and Japan emerged as world centers for swords and weaponry, which led to knives.

Their designs, philosophies and materials were different regarding swords and knives, though. Germany’s were made of softer but heavier, rugged steel, and the edges weren’t pinprick sharp, but got the job done. The knife blade had a slightly rounded shape, allowing the user to “rock” the blade and chop foods. The Japanese developed blades made from thin layers of different types of steel. This meant that they could be sharpened to precision without breaking and be lighter to carry and wield. Their knife blade was straighter across than the German counterpart, making it better for slicing, drawing the knife toward the user.

Today, knives have evolved into more hybrid versions with advancements in design and materials. Reviews and hundreds of options are available online, but anyone serious about starting a useful collection should hold the knives to gauge its ergonomics, comfort and weight in the hand.

Baranth’s business is, much of the time, barbeque, so his other favorite go-to tool is a “reverse flow, off-set stick burner smoker, used for “kissing” all their meats in a hickory, apple, cherry and Alabama peach wood smoke bath. A “bigger smoker” is on Baranth’s wish list of gadgets, so that he can better accommodate his growing clientele, and Glass also put a smoker on his wish list.

Glass and Conroy noted pumped-up versions of two of their favorite tools when it came to things they’d like to have someday. Glass picked out a Robot Coupe—a high-powered, “super Cuisineart” with all the attachments. Conroy says she’d like a KitchenAid Red Proline Series with a 7 quart bowl and lift.

“Imagine 16 cups of flour,” she adds. “Goosebumps!”      

For more information on culinary arts classes and dinners at West Virginia Northern Community College, visit www.wvncc.edu or call (304) 233-5900.

To find out where the Ideal Provisions truck will be daily or for catering information, see the Ideal Provisions Facebook page.

Conroy sells baked goods at the Ohio Valley Farmers Market from June to October and desserts at Food by Jane. See the Facebook pages for Diane Conroy or the Rock Hill Presbyterian Church for her upcoming cooking classes.   

Dean Baranth, chef/owner of Ideal Provisions, says his chef’s knife, a gift from his mother, is indispensable. Home cooks should be able to build their own sets affordably with a little research.